Episode n° 18 Castrojériz.
“The experience of the beggar pilgrim”.
After 1,200 km of walking alone, including 350 on the ''Camino francès'' in Spain, I am beginning to familiarize myself with the language of the country and no longer hesitate to strike up small conversations with Spanish pilgrims.
Thanks to one of them, who was on his 3rd pilgrimage, St Jean pied de Port Santiago, and with whom I had been walking for a few days, I was able to discover a totally unsuspected aspect of what can be, for residents of the Camino*, a pilgrim on the Way to Compostela.
With a mischievous smile, my companion on the Way and “advisor” in communication, tells me that it is time to move on from learning the Spanish language to experimenting in the field.
“As it's almost noon, you're going to ring the doorbell of a house to…ask for something to eat. »
Amazement! After many procrastinations ... to hide from a test that seemed impossible to me, my companion stops, puts down his backpack, looks me straight in the eye, with Strength, Tenderness and determination .... he vigorously shakes the bell located at the entrance to a beautiful property.
“Hello pilgrims, do you need anything? »
Complete panic, I greet the owner of the place but not a word comes to explain the reason for our call.
Without a doubt this man understands my discomfort, looking at my companion's playful face, he questions him… then, both of them start laughing happily.
"Ha, you have an empty stomach, wait, I'm making you a bocadillo*"
What to eat for 2 days!
The most amazing thing is to see how much this man takes pleasure in offering us this meal, as if for him our request for Help was a real gift from Heaven.
We resume the Path to, a little further, savor these delicious bocadillos, moment used by my partner to highlight:
“You see, every time you buy 'your little sandwiches' you deprive someone of a moment of happiness. »
It is clear that on this one, my Walking companion is right.
The next day while walking we discuss the event of the day before, from his point of view I am progressing but… “Today you manage on your own to ask for our meal! »
Around 1:00 p.m. at the exit of a hamlet, passing in front of a kind of shepherd's hut, we are both challenged by the delicious smell of barbecue which escapes from the chimney.
Before even putting down his backpack, my ''guide'' in the art of ''precisely begging'' exclaims “Whoa (hello in Spanish)… how good your place smells! »
Instantly, a small window opens, a man asks: “Hello pilgrims, have you already eaten? »
I answer no and I confirm, “Oh yes…, it really smells very very good this appetizing smell that comes out of your chimney! »
We are then invited to share the deer of four hunters who celebrate their success of the day.
Unforgettable moment when the wine flows freely and when we are considered, here again, as Missionaries of Heaven to transform a good meal of grilled meat on the fireplace into a joyful moment of celebration.
Camino*, Chemin de Compostelle.*Bocadillo, Sandwich in French.